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“Adventure is a path. Real adventure – self-determined, self-motivated, often risky – forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind – and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white.” –Mark Jenkins

Wednesday 19 August 2009

Day 102 – 14th August, Friday – The Risnjak National Park, Croatia.

We left the mud-covered campsite at noon and headed inland to the Risnjak mountain forests; home of the Mountain Lynx (‘Ris’ means Lynx in Croatian), the Brown Bear and the Wolf. We arrived mid afternoon (after a slightly desperate search for an open petrol station) and found the national park entrance. It’s not legal to wild-camp in Croatia, and with no campsites in the vicinity, we decided to try one of the village’s apartments for rent and go walking. One of the women working in the restaurant at the park owned one such apartment and it was available for 250 Kuna per night (about £30?). We were given directions (“next village along, third house on the left”) and she called ahead to arrange for her sister to be waiting outside for us when we got there. Luxury. The park will still be there tomorrow.

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