
We left the mud-covered campsite at noon and headed inland to the Risnjak mountain forests; home of the Mountain Lynx (‘Ris’ means Lynx in Croatian), the Brown Bear and the Wolf. We arrived mid afternoon (after a slightly desperate search for an open petrol station) and found the national park entrance. It’s not legal to wild-camp in Croatia, and with no campsites in the vicinity, we decided to try one of the village’s apartments for rent and go walking. One of the women working in the restaurant at the park owned one such apartment and it was available for 250 Kuna per night (about £30?). We were given directions (“next village along, third house on the left”) and she called ahead to arrange for her sister to be waiting outside for us when we got there. Luxury. The park will still be there tomorrow.
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