Description

“Adventure is a path. Real adventure – self-determined, self-motivated, often risky – forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind – and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white.” –Mark Jenkins

Sunday, 12 August 2012

Finally got internet access - albeit slow - here is the journey so far...

Spent the day at work until Mum and Caroline collected me at 4:15pm - let the adventure begin!
The journey to the airport felt just like any other, not really excited or nervous just an airport trip like any other for work - but when we arrived and waved Mum off, it suddenly became real! We were going to Africa, and I couldn't wait.
We had 3 hours at the airport until the plant took off, so decided to do a bar crawl of the lounges - Caroline had not been to BA's Terminal 5 at Heathrow before, so we started in the South lounges with food wine and nibbles before heading over to the lounge at B gates for Baileys, Bloody Mary's and Rum.
We boarded the plane on time, but unfortunately a couple of people had checked their bags in but failed ot turn up at the gate, inconsiderate gits, so we were delayed an hour on the tarmac whilst their bags were retrieved and removed from the plane. Once we were finally airborn, we quickly became chilled (pissed) and happy (ridulously excited). Dinner was served, wine was stashed and giggles were had. The eight and a half hour flightwas a mixture of micro sleeps, random questions, lots of giggling and a soggy tuna sandwich for breakfast!?!. We touched down just after 8am in Entebbe airport and joined the visa queue which was remarkably quick and easy. $100 US dollars lighter we were formally in the country and searched the crowds for our names on a board.
No name board in sight, we headed outside, where Godfrey was waiting for us - such a relief, all was going to plan.
Godfrey took us in his jeepand we loaded up all 4 of our suitcases and left on the main road to Kampala the capital, stopping first to change some money. Within the space of 15 minutes I had become a millionaire when $500 turned into 1,100,000 Ugandan Shillings!
The 30 minute drive to the central city bus depot was an eye-opener for sure - not too many traffic lights, no roundabouts and zero lane discipline. We eventually made it to a chaotic and busy bus station where a Kibale-bound bus (the only one leaving that day) was full to the brim and about to leave. It was 930am, Godfrey worked his magic and managed to get us and all our luggage on the bus with help from two of his friends who assured us the driver now knew where we were going. We were the only Mzungus (white people) on the bus - in fact the only Mzungus we had seen since leaving the airport - and we got the distinct impression that the two standing Ugandans had been turfed out of their seats to make way for us - seriously shameful feeling.
I found a seat next to a 23 year old girl who was going to Kibale for her cousin's wedding and Caroline was squashed on the end of a row with a young single mother and her 12 week old baby called "Peace" and another bloke on his way to Kibale. The bus was hot, smelly and jam packed full of people, luggage, groceries and bananas. Knowing we had at least 5 hours on the bus we were no longer particulary excited! However, we set off with windows open and very soon the smells were flushed out and it became quite chilly.
Many people slept while others chatted or listened to the incredibly loud radio blaring out above our heads. An odd guy calling himself "Dr Bride" clambered the aisle almost preaching about Ebola, faith and Uganda and dishing out menthol medicated throut sweets before we left the city centre and entered lush countryside and things quietened down.
There were a few stops along the way during which people would thrust barbequed meat on skewers and chapatis in clear plastic bags up to the windows - we finally stopped for a "short call" (pee-stop) after about 2 and a half hours  - not a moment too soon as far as I was concerned. We both clambered over the baggage wedged in the aisle much to the amusement of the locals who were clearly thinking... look the Mzungus are going to go too! Thankfully we had read about these stops and were suitably attired in long skirts... however in hindsight, we should have ditched the knickers to make life easier (and dryer in Caroline's case!).  I have to say I've never experienced anything quite so imtimidating, funny or bizarre as that short call. We were walking towards the scrub and could feel a hundred pairs of eyes burning into the back of our heads, but desperation meant we had no choice. 30 people, men, women and children, all squatting randomly around us with not a care in the world  - they were everywhere, in full view, males and females mixed - there was no hiding at all... "just get on with it" I told myself. So Caroline and I, side by side, manouvered ourselves into position facing the bus but partially hidden by long grass. Im not sure whether it was the amound of time we had been holding it for, or being surrounded by complete strangers, but to our horror, we both got stage fright - nightmare. Not now, please - we knew we had another 3 hours o nthe bus at least - we had to get it done. Eventually after a major balancing act, a soggy patch on Caroline's skirt and endless giggling, our mission was accomplished - and just in time too - we had barely made it back to our seats when the bus was off again, bumping over potholes and veering from side to side through endless banana plantations and grassy swampland.
The recent rains had washed so much of the road away in places, that sleep was impossible... we'd drop off and 5 minutes later we'd be woken up as we hit another mammoth pothole and were catapulted towards the roof! The bus journey was long, tiring and uncomfortable, but I don't think either of us would have missed it for the world - a top experience indeed.
When we drive through Mbarara, we telephoned Denis, the manager at the Lodge, to tell him we were on a blue bus and should be arriving within the hour - he said that although he wasn't going to be there to greet us, people were waiting for us.
Sure enough the plan was perfect and within hlaf an hour we were saying our goodbyes to our fellow bus travellers and humping our luggage out of boot number 2. Restee, a Lady working at the Lodge, met us along with Sam, another volunteer from Cheltenham. We'd finally made it, it was 415pm - exactly 24 hours since our departure. Shattered, hot, and smelly - but very happy. The place is more beautiful than we imagined and as remote as we had hoped.

Thursday, 9 August 2012

The Journey - August 9th-10th

Spent the day at work until Mum and Caroline collected me at 4:15pm- let the adventure begin!
The journey to the airport felt just like any other, not really excited or nervous just an airport trip like any other for work - but when we arrived and waved Mum off, it suddenly became real! We were going to Africa, and I couldn't wait.
We had 3 hours at the airport until the plant took off, so decided to do a bar crawl of the lounges - Caroline had not been to BA's Terminal 5 at Heathrow before, so we started in the South lounges with food wine and nibbles before heading over to the lounge at B gates for Baileys, Bloody Mary's and Rum.
We boarded the plane on time, but unfortunately a couple of people had checked their bags in but failed to turn up at the gate, inconsiderate gits, so we were delayed an hour on the tarmac whilst their bags were retrieved and removed from the plane. Once we were finally air born, we quickly became chilled (pissed) and happy (ridiculously excited). Dinner was served, wine was stashed and giggles were had. The eight and a half hour flight was a mixture of micro sleeps, random questions, lots of giggling and a soggy tuna sandwich for breakfast!?!. We touched down just after 8am in Entebbe airport and joined the visa queue which was remarkably quick and easy. $100 US dollars lighter we were formally in the country and searched the crowds for our names on a board.
No name board in sight, we headed outside, where Godfrey was waiting for us - such a relief, all was going to plan.
Godfrey took us in his jeep and we loaded up all 4 of our suitcases and left on the main road to Kampala the capital, stopping first to change some money. Within the space of 15 minutes I had become a millionaire when $500 turned into 1,100,000 Ugandan Shillings!
The 30 minute drive to the central city bus depot was an eye-opener for sure - not too many traffic lights, no roundabouts and zero lane discipline. We eventually made it to a chaotic and busy bus station where a Kibale-bound bus (the only one leaving that day) was full to the brim and about to leave. It was 930am, Godfrey worked his magic and managed to get us and all our luggage on the bus with help from two of his friends who assured us the driver now knew where we were going. We were the only Mzungus (white people) on the bus - in fact the only Mzungus we had seen since leaving the airport - and we got the distinct impression that the two standing Ugandans had been turfed out of their seats to make way for us - seriously shameful feeling.
I found a seat next to a 23 year old girl who was going to Kibale for her cousin's wedding and Caroline was squashed on the end of a row with a young single mother and her 12 week old baby called "Peace" and another bloke on his way to Kibale. The bus was hot, smelly and jam packed full of people, luggage, groceries and bananas. Knowing we had at least 5 hours on the bus we were no longer particularly excited! However, we set off with windows open and very soon the smells were flushed out and it became quite chilly.
Many people slept while others chatted or listened to the incredibly loud radio blaring out above our heads. An odd guy calling himself "Dr Bride" clambered the aisle almost preaching about Ebola, faith and Ugandaand dishing out menthol medicated throat sweets before we left the city centre and entered lush countryside and things quietened down.
There were a few stops along the way during which people would thrust barbecued meat on skewers and chapatis in clear plastic bags up to the windows - we finally stopped for a "short call" (pee-stop) after about 2 and a half hours  - not a moment too soon as far as I was concerned. We both clambered over the baggage wedged in the aisle much to the amusement of the locals who were clearly thinking... look the Mzungus are going to go too! Thankfully we had read about these stops and were suitably attired in long skirts... however in hindsight, we should have ditched the knickers to make life easier (and dryer in Caroline's case!).  I have to say I've never experienced anything quite so intimidating, funny or bizarre as that short call. We were walking towards the scrub and could feel a hundred pairs of eyes burning into the back of our heads, but desperation meant we had no choice. 30 people, men, women and children, all squatting randomly around us with not a care in the world  - they were everywhere, in full view, males and females mixed - there was no hiding at all... "just get on with it" I told myself. So Caroline and I, side by side, manoeuvred ourselves into position facing the bus but partially hidden by long grass. I'm not sure whether it was the amount of time we had been holding it for, or being surrounded by complete strangers, but to our horror, we both got stage fright - nightmare. Not now, please - we knew we had another 3 hours on the bus at least - we had to get it done. Eventually after a major balancing act, a soggy patch on Caroline's skirt and endless giggling, our mission was accomplished - and just in time too - we had barely made it back to our seats when the bus was off again, bumping over potholes and veering from side to side through endless banana plantations and grassy swampland.
The recent rains had washed so much of the road away in places, that sleep was impossible... we'd drop off and 5 minutes later we'd be woken up as we hit another mammoth pothole and were catapulted towards the roof! The bus journey was long, tiring and uncomfortable, but I don't think either of us would have missed it for the world - a top experience indeed.
When we drive through Mbarara, we telephoned Denis, the manager at the Lodge, to tell him we were on a blue bus and should be arriving within the hour - he said that although he wasn't going to be there to greet us, people were waiting for us.
Sure enough the plan was perfect and within half an hour we were saying our goodbyes to our fellow bus travellers and humping our luggage out of boot number 2. Resty, a Lady working at the Lodge, met us along with Sam, another volunteer from Cheltenham. We'd finally made it, it was 415pm - exactly 24 hours since our departure. Shattered, hot, and smelly - but very happy. The place is more beautiful than we imagined and as remote as we had hoped.

Tuesday, 7 August 2012

Almost finished the packing last night before Caroline and the nieces turned up, fresh from the campsite (but not smelling that fresh). So with the littlest in the bath, Caroline and I ran over some of the final details of the trip and I think we’re pretty much covered – apart from Caroline’s SLR camera not having a charger, a spare card, or any auto-focusing at the moment!!
Although Uganda is on the equator, the Ruhanga project is high up at 1500 metres so the evenings will get quite cold. I have packed a fleece and a waterproof jacket as well as some warm socks, but couldn’t fit the waterproof trousers in, especially after now deciding to take a large towel with me, (I might regret this decision), but I’m certainly looking forward to the nightly campfires that will be burning away the mossies,    …talking of mossies, I started taking the Yeast / Vitamin B1 this week too, tastes foul and repeats a little (well quite a lot actually), but if it works I don’t really care.
I’m currently sat in my hotel room in Krakow (Poland) in slight disbelief that the 500 or so days we had to plan this trip since deciding to do it are almost up – and in 48 hours’ time we will be wandering Heathrow at the start of either the most amazing experience to date, or complete madness setting in. For me Africa has always held a prominent place in my heart – it’s a magical, mysterious, breath-taking and occasionally frightening place, steeped in culture, traditions and obscure religions, all providing huge fascination for a closet Animist like me.
I often wonder what became of Emelia Ngwenya and her family (I'm holding her baby brother David in the picture). She was the first child I sponsored when I was just 15 years old. Sadly a few years after visiting her in her home village in the Masvingo district of Zimbabwe, President Robert Mugabe made it impossible for the charity to stay in the country and they were forced to leave. Sometimes I wonder too whether it’s all worth it. Is it better for Emelia to have never known what she could now be missing (clean water, school lessons, medical supplies)? Is ignorance really bliss?

Wednesday, 1 August 2012

Killer virus kills 14 people!

The Ebola virusOk so the news wasn't great from Uganda this week...
A few weeks ago in Kibaale (300kms North East of Ruhanga but still in the Western district), a number of people were found to have died from an outbreak of the deadly Ebola virus.  http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-19048998

Since then 14 people have died (some of them children) and most of them from the same family, when the virus spread at a funeral and was then passed to the health workers who were treating the patients.  The BBC reported that "President Yoweri Museveni has urged people to avoid physical contact, after the deadly Ebola virus claimed one life in the capital, Kampala."
Since we will be flying into Entebbe and then going into Kampala bus station to catch a bus out to Ruhanga, I have decided to wear gloves during the journey to avoid appearing rude and not shaking peoples hands.
There is unfortunately no cure or vaccine for Ebola, but some googling of alternative (homeopathic) remedies has revealed that the venom of a particular Timber Rattlesnake is known to be effective if taken immediately... Knowing the ease with which viruses seem to seek me out and munch through my blood cells (and remembering all too clearly my frightening episode with Malaria), I decided to order some "Crotalus Horridus" in tablet form just in case - you wouldnt believe how hard it is to get hold of in the UK due to ridiculous shipment and advertising laws that have been handed out by the EU. I only hope it arrives in time - 8 days to go! 
Click here for Tuesday's BBC News update

Monday, 23 July 2012

Itojo Hospital

Given my historically not-so-great luck with travel health, I have been doing some research on the local medical facilities near the project. It turns out we get off the bus at Itojo hospital which was built in the 60's and is walking distance (4kms) from the school we will be working in. It's a rural facility serving Ntungamo District as well as some parts of neighboring Northern Tanzania and Northeastern Rwanda.   It has 120 beds in total, although sometimes patients are found sleeping on the floor due to over-admissions which is a little worrying.  Over the years the hospital has deteriorated somewhat, but in 2007 the Egyptian Government donated US$280,000 to rehabilitate the hospital, including the construction of three new staff houses.
Then this time last year, Egypt made further donations of pharmaceuticals, an electricity generator and other hospital supplies – so with any luck it will have everything we need. (I also checked the Rabies antidote is in stock, - although they say they haven't needed to use it for 6 years, so I'm guessing it will also be out of date by now - must stay away from rats and bats!)